The Sunday Market

I found a new religion in France– the Sunday market. I tease, of course, but walking through the market has become a favorite habit of mine. When I lived in New York City, I enjoyed perusing the green market near Columbia University on most Thursdays and the occasional Sunday. It was great to put a face and name to the food that I ate– more than just a brand but a relationship.

Looking out into the crowd from behind a produce table at the Sunday market in Annecy.

But the Sunday market here in Annecy is a completely different experience. For starters, it is much larger. Dozens upon dozens of vendors snake through the tiny, congested pedestrian-only streets and bridges in centre ville- the oldest part of town.

The melange of colors from the awnings, boxes of bright, fresh produce, bins of glistening, multicolored olives, racks of hanging sausages, vibrant scarves and dresses, and the gentle sway of crowded potential customers stepping on each other’s toes– this is the market that I love.

The merchants yell out their latest bargains or ask you (gently) if you would like to sample a local cheese or sweet nougat. One could eat like that in lieu of a complete meal while strolling among the tables.  And then there are the smells: salty, tangy, briny, caramel-y, fruity, smokey, spicy, buttery, musty, perfume-y.

Each vendor’s table has its own tempting item, but I usually gravitate to the eggwashed, butter-based pastries like a pain au chocolat or a croissant. I have frequented this one table so often, that when the kind merchant man recognized me, he sold me his last two croissants for the price of one! What a gift!

Pain au chocolat from the Sunday market in Annecy.

I learned that one of the most popular purchases at the Sunday market is a roasted chicken (with or without potatoes) for lunch. And it’s true! Those tables always have the longest lines by far, but believe me, they are well worth the wait (but a bit of a hassle to get around if you are not in it).

After the market closes at 1pm, the party is not over.  With the recent purchases, I often have had picnics with friends in the nearby park. On the return home, we will walk back through the centre ville for ice cream or coffee, and the streets are still packed– sidewalk tables of the restaurants and cafes are overflowing. People are everywhere, out and about. It appears that the market just kicks off what ends up being a lovely all-day affair in the centre ville.

Tartiflette

While attending language courses at IFALPES in Annecy, I live with a French family. Included in my rent is breakfast everyday (not lunch or dinner). However, my first weekend here, they invited me to join them for dinner because Claude, the wife/mother, had made a Tartiflette, which was wonderful of course.

What’s a Tartiflette, you ask? Essentially it’s a hearty dish made of sliced potatoes (you know I like my potatoes!), melted cheese, onions, and lardons (or bacon/pancetta) which is then baked in the oven until golden and piping hot.  From a region steeped in Alpine history, the Haute-Savoie cuisine reflects the centuries-old traditions and culture that formed as a result of living in the French Alps. The Tartiflette is emblematic of the cuisine from this region which relies heavily on potatoes, cheese, pork, and other items that can easily be stored and accessed during the long winter months in the mountains.

Since that family dinner, I have seen Tartiflettes available everywhere including vendors at the outdoor/street markets. I’m sure like any regional cuisine, everyone has a different but “right” way to make it, and my French family has vowed that I will learn how to make theirs before I leave. Here’s a recipe translated into English by me (below) from Marmiton, which I learned from class on Thursday is a great place for French recipes. Bon Apetitit!

Tartiflette, Image courtesy of BBC Food Recipes, http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/tartiflette_59096

“The True Tartiflette” from Marmiton

Prep Time : 15 minutes
Cook Time : 60 minutes

Ingredients (for 4 peeople) :
– 1 kg (just over 2lbs) of potatoes
– 200g (1/2 lb) of smoked lardons (cubed ham or pancetta works, too)
– 200g (1/2 lb) of onions, chopped
– 1 Reblochon  (type of soft cow’s milk cheese from Haute-Savoie)
– 2 soup spoons of oil
– garlic, salt, pepper to taste
Note: other recipes included creme fraiche while this one did not. It’s up to you whether to add some creme fraiche before the Reblochon; it might help to keep the potatoes from getting too dry.

The Prep :

Peel and cube the potatoes. Rinse well and dry with a clean towel.
Heat the oil in a skillet with the onions until soft; add the potatoes.
Brown the potatoes on all sides; add the lardons and finish cooking.

Meanwhile, scrape the rind off the Reblochon and cut in half (or quarters).

Prepare a baking or casserole dish by rubbing the bottom and sides with garlic.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (about 400°F)
Cover the bottom of the baking dish with a layer of the potato-lardon-onion mixture. Layer half of the Reblochon on top of that followed by the rest of the potatoes.

Season with salt and pepper throughout.

Top it off with the rest of the Reblochon which will become a cheesy crust for the dish

Place in the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, until the cheese is golden and bubbling.

Serve with :

Wine from Savoie: Vin de Savoie Apremont or Vin de Seyssel
Or choose a light, crisp white wine to balance the heaviness of the cheese.